Out and About 2

[spawn]

Just some shots from around here.Georgian Bay sunset. Shot on 35mm Fuji Velvia for super colour saturation. http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/40290007.jpg In the Rain http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/seansduchesne.jpg Bridal Veil Falls on Manitoulin Island....nice spot, right on the side of the road. 2 sec exposure http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/P5150037.jpg Just Chillin http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/P6170431-1.jpg Some days, it is worth getting up at 5:00 a.m. http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/P5220213.jpg Misty Rapids http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/P6030340.jpg

[skibunnie64]

Hey spawn..next time put spaces between your pictures /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif

[Chako]

Don't need spaces. The first one is simply scrumptious along with the last one.

Good work Spawn.

[hp2]

just a ? How the hell do you make the water look like fog??



very nice I must say!!

[spawn]

I fixed the spacing..oops. You can make the water look like fog by setting up a tripod, and using your "S" setting as priority. The exposure time can be manipulated from there, but it is dependant on light conditions, and the maximum F-stop on your camera. ( how small the lens opening can be made ) . If your camera has over/under exposure feature, you can also modify the default setting to change the tone of the shot.

[hp2]

lol ok im a tard what is the s setting, do you mean shutter speeds!!! and the F stop, wow totally different language, lol can you explain in english!! : ) plz

[EyelashExtensions]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spawn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I fixed the spacing..oops. You can make the water look like fog by setting up a tripod, and using your "S" setting as priority. The exposure time can be manipulated from there, but it is dependant on light conditions, and the maximum F-stop on your camera. ( how small the lens opening can be made ) . If your camera has over/under exposure feature, you can also modify the default setting to change the tone of the shot. </div></div>


This was on my agenda to try as I am just learning the basics. Great pictures! Makes me want to go take some pictures.

[hp2]

lol I agree lizzard.. but to sit and read as I do, it actually I think boggles my mind

[Andre]

/ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

[Xzavia]

Hey Stranger!

WoW.....those are really, really nice!

P.S. You should get up at 5am more often! lol!!!

[Chako]

Here you go.

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Camera-Shutter-Speeds-explained

[hp2]

thanks chako, but is a shutter speed the same as Iso speed are we talking the same thing??

[Chako]

No it isn't.

Shutter speed is the speed a mechanical shutter travels across the film plane/sensor plane.

Aperture is the amount of light that enters the lens. There is a mechanical diaphragm that you can set (called f stops) in the lens that controls this.

To get proper exposure of a scene, you will need the right amount of shutter speed and aperture. This is determined by a built in light meter, or if your old school, a hand held light meter (in fact, if you do have a hand held light meter, you can easily see that there is a series of shutter/aperture combinations that will allow proper exposure for a given scene).

ISO in 35mm film indicates how sensitive the chemicals found on the film was to light. Daylight film often had an ISO of 100. Night time film, an ISO of 400 or more. Some slide films had ISOs of 50. A general rule of thumb is to get faster film (higher ISO) if your going to shoot in low light such as an awards ceremony etc. higher speed film gives you more grain because of the chemicals used and their deposition on the acetate backing or carrier.

In digital cameras, ISO is a holdover from film days. Basically, ISO settings allow you to change the sensitivity of your digital image sensor. Higher ISO settings allow your digital image sensor to be more sensitive to light, perfect for low light photography. However, higher ISO gives you noise instead of film grain. Higher noise is not a good thing. Unlike film grain however, it is easily removed with the proper software.

http://www.photonhead.com/exposure/exposure.php

[Chako]

Here are a few more illustrations that I hope will set things a little clearer for you.

The following image shows a film enlarger used in a darkroom to transfer images from a 35mm negative to light sensitive photographic paper (which we call a print). The lens works the same as in your camera however. In this example, f2.8 is wide open and allows the maximum amount of light to pass through the lens. f16 is the smallest aperture for this lens, allowing little light to pass through the lens.

Every camera has these blades or diaphragms in their lenses. There is more to this but I won't confuse you. If you are interested google "depth of field" and "bokeh".

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/Chako_photo/EnlargerF-stopssmall.jpg

The next image shows a cloth focal plane shutter at work. Today, they don't use cloth, but metal blades. The metal blades allow for faster shutter speeds. This example below has the shutter traveling horizontally. Many new cameras, the shutter travels vertically.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/Chako_photo/FocalPlaneshutterworkingssmall.jpg

[skibunnie64]

thanks chako for the information...when i have more time however i will reread it and try to absorb some of it and make sense to it

[Chako]

Here is a handout I used with my photography class...


How to use a manual exposure meter

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/Chako_photo/im_reflected_01.jpg

All exposure meters (Gossen, Sekonic or whatever) have a few things in common. All of them have a dial to set your film speed (1), which is a good place to start.

Most of them come with a white plastic dome, which can be slid on or off to cover the metering cell. With that dome in place, it'll measure INCIDENT light, which is the light falling upon the subject. If you walk up to your subject and point the meter back towards the camera, this will give you a pretty accurate reading.

The other kind of metering method (The ones we will be using for this course) is called REFLECTIVE metering, done without the dome. Here, you'll have to point the meter directly at the subject, because it meters the light reflected off it. This is more complex, because not all subjects are equally light or dark - you'll have to think along with the meter, because the meter "thinks" it's looking at a "standard" 18% grey card. This takes a bit of practice.

Whatever kind of meter you have, pressing the button to take a reading will usually make one of two needles move along a scale. If your meter has a rotary dial with numbers on it, turn this dial until both needles line up.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/Chako_photo/DSCN1142small.jpg
On this example, you would center the red needle within the circle on the green needle..then read the scales to get your correct exposure settings of aperture and shutter speed.

You'll notice that the dial has two scales - an inner and an outer. By moving the dial, the two scales line up shutter speeds (3) (1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 etc.) with corresponding apertures (2) (f-2, f-2.8, f-4, f-5.6, f-8, f-11 etc.). Whatever the reading when you pressed the button, ANY of these shutter/f-stop combinations will give you the correct exposure.

Now it's up to you to decide which of those combinations will work best for the particular photograph you want to take. Need a fast shutter speed for an action photo? Read off the f-stop that matches up to the 1/250 speed - let's say f-4. But what if shutter speed doesn't matter, you have the camera on a tripod and you're more worried about depth of field for a landscape? Again no problem - the answer's there for you: Look up f-16 on the aperture scale - f-16, right? But your shutter speed will have to be 1/15th of a second.

That's about it, without writing a photography book! A hand held meter is a fantastic tool, once you've had a bit of practice using it - a rotating scale gives you ALL possible exposure combinations instantly. (Pilots use a similar rotary calculator for time-distance-speed problems - simple and quick)

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/Chako_photo/DSCN1143small.jpg

In the above picture of a light meter dial, you can see that the meter has been set for 400 speed film. If you read the light meter, you can see that f16 will give you 1/250 (rounding). This is due to the light meter being pointed at a bright light source of EV 16.

[skibunnie64]

thanks chako

[Chako]

You’re welcome.

I know not many people use hand held light meters these days. But it does give an insight into how a built in camera light meter works.

On many digital cameras, there are 2 contrasting modes. The green square mode where it turns the camera into a point and shoot that will select what it thinks is the best aperture and shutter with no user input. Then there is the "P" or program mode. Program mode allows you to change the shutter and aperture on the fly. You can dial in a smaller/larger aperture and a slower/faster shutter speed series depending upon what you’re trying to do. This is the same as the hand held light meter. You can have a series of different aperture and shutter speed combinations that will properly expose the photo, but with varying effects. Spawn's waterfall photos show what a slow shutter speed can do to a moving object.

That is a wrap up. /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

[skibunnie64]

Yes I know how Spawn did that waterfall photo...just when I go and do it I am lost at how...I took a digital photography class but they didn't go into the apurture and shutter speed to much which i was hoping they would

[hp2]

ok ? In my camera as I have sooooo Many different options!! I cannot find apurture or shutter speeds, it gives me different things like the (burst) effect!! if I go into landscapes, it give me it say sHigh F numbers for more depth of feild, portrait for low f numbers to blur back ground, I have theatre, panorama left and right, action, for fast shutter spes to stop action it says, night portrait for long expousure with flash to capture forground and background, then one with flash off, I have a beach option,a snow option a sunset option,

I also have exposure comp I can move
adaptive lighting
bracketing
burst
white balance
saturation
sharpness
contrast


sooo with all that said, what the heck do I play with to change the shutter speeds as it does say in the manual

shutter speed 1/2000 to 16 seconds

im lost and aprreciate your help!!!

I guess to sum up what im playing with here it is

Features/Specifications:
HP Photosmart R725 6.2MP 3x/8x Digital Zoom Camera


General Features:
6.3 megapixel (2934 x 2171) total pixel count
6.1 megapixel (2864 x 2160) effective pixel count
7.219 mm (1/2.5-type, 4:3 format) CCD
36-bit and 42-bit color
3x optical zoom with 9 positions between wide and telephoto
8x digital zoom
1/2000 to 16 seconds shutter speed
Built-in flash
2-inch color LTPS TFT LCD with backlight
153,000 pixels (640 x 240) total pixel count
32 MB internal flash memory
Secure Digital slot (supports standard and high speed, from 8 MB to 2 GB)
640 x 480 @ 24 frames per second video clips (VGA)
320 x 240 @ 24 frames per second video clips (QVGA)
JPEG (EXIF) for still images
EXIF for still images with embedded audio
MPEG1 for video clips
10-second self-timer (two shot option for two delayed shots or one video clip)
Burst mode


Lens Features:
6.5 mm (wide)
19.5 mm (telephoto)
39 mm to 118 mm (35 mm equivalent)
f/3.5 to f/7.4 (wide)
f/5 to f/8.5 (telephoto)


Focus Features:
Auto focus with Multi and Spot focus areas settings
Normal
500 mm (19.7-inches) to infinity (wide)
600 mm (23.6-inches) to infinity (telephoto)
Macro
100 mm to 1-meter (3.9 to 39.4-inches, macro/wide)
Auto Macro
Automatically shifts into Auto Macro when the subject is too close in Normal focus
Infinity


ISO Settings:
Auto (default)
100
200
400


Flash Features:
Auto (default)
Red-eye reduction
Flash on
Flash off
12.5-feet range with maximum ISO speed set to Auto ISO (wide)
14.8-feet range with maximum ISO speed set to Auto ISO (telephoto)
Corner intensitity is greater than or equal to 55% of center intensity (Lux Seconds)


Shooting Modes:
Auto (default)
Landscape
Portrait
Theatre
Panorama
Action
Night Portrait
Night Scenery
Beach
Snow
Sunset
Document


Adaptive Lighting Settings:
Off (default)
Low
High


Bracketing Settings:
Off (default)
Adaptive Lighting
Exposure
Color


White Balance Features:
Auto (default)
Sun
Shade
Tungsten
Fluorescent
Manual


Image Quality Features:
4 stars: Little to no compression
3 stars: Low compression
2 stars: Medium compression
1 star: High compression
6 MP (3 stars): For enlarging or printing images greater than 28 x 36 cm (11 x 14 inches)
Normal (6 MP, 2 stars) (default): For printing images up to 28 x 36 cm (11 x 14 inches)
4 MP (2 stars): For printing images up to 20 x 25 cm (8 x 10 inches)
2 MP (2 stars): For printing images up to 13 x 18 cm (5 x 7 inches)
VGA (2 stars): For sending images through e-mail or posting images to the Internet
Custom: For specifying a custom combination of resolution and compression


Video Quality Features:
Normal - VGA (3 stars): (Default) For outdoor action video clips or printing individual video frames up to 10.2 x 15.2 cm (4 x 6-inches)
VGA (2 stars): For indoor video clips or printing individual video frames up to 7.6 x 12.7 cm (3 x 5-inches)
QVGA (1 star): For capturing longer video clips or e-mailing shorter clips


Supported Standards:
PTP
USB - MSDC and SIDC
JPEG
MPEG1
DPOF 1.1
EXIF
DCF
DPS

[Chako]

After reading this review of your camera, (http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/hp/photosmart_r727-review/) it does not have shutter priority, Aperture priority, or manual modes. /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Your camera is a basic entry point and shoot model. If you are planning on doing more advanced things, I am sorry to say, you will need a more advanced camera as you have hit the limitation imposed by your equipment.

Lucky enough, there are many good cheap cameras out there that will give you those creative modes that are lacking in your model.

[sage]

Nice pix spawn, as always!
You always take awesome pix!

[hp2]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chako</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After reading this review of your camera, (http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/hp/photosmart_r727-review/) it does not have shutter priority, Aperture priority, or manual modes. /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Your camera is a basic entry point and shoot model. If you are planning on doing more advanced things, I am sorry to say, you will need a more advanced camera as you have hit the limitation imposed by your equipment.

Lucky enough, there are many good cheap cameras out there that will give you those creative modes that are lacking in your model.
</div></div>

I have had quite a few basic entry level cameras, and like you said unfortunatly this one is one of them, it is to a certian point there is sooooooo much on here in the camera to learn IM telling you theres more then what the reviews shows etc! Like I said in the past this camera is more then what the books says and reviews say every time I play with it its a learning experince, you are right though There is no apature and shutter speed settings sooooo to speek, but I can do it other ways, I was playing last night, sooo I guess its all in how you use it, Im not worried about speed settings though as My other camera does it when it wants to work!! : )


Thanks for all the help

[spawn]

Hey thanks for the comments !! Just trying to figure out new Camera....here are a few more. Purple Haze http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/40290011.jpg A Second in Time http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/tbtobermoryshoreline.jpg Long Way Down http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/TewsFalls2.jpg .

[skibunnie64]

Great shots spawn!!

[sage]

Purple Haze is beautiful.....♥

[Babzz]

i love coffee hazy like water.. would love to try a shot like that

[everywoman]

More great shots~

[spawn]

Nando, the first shot of the sunset, and the purplish sunset and the shoreline shot below were shot on a 35 mm Minolta using Fuji Velvia. They are untouched ( not photshopped ) or manipulated in any other way. The remaing shots were shot on my digital. Glad you enjoyed them. http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x47/spawnman62/halfwaylogdumptb.jpg

[EyelashExtensions]

Wow thanks Chako for all the info you provided! I'm going to snap some pics now, lol.

[bohd]

GREAT PICS,,,,THE WATER TIME LAPSE ONES ESPECIALLY LOOK BEAUTIFUL
WATER LOOKS LIKE SILK...TO ME ANYWAY